 
If you want to catch
fish, really catch fish, live bait is the only way to go. You
may catch some fish on dead cut bait, but in general they will
be smaller and fewer in number. We’ve proven this to ourselves
more times than I can remember.
Shiners
and shad live longer if hooked through front lips or bottom lip
through nostril. Care must be taken not to break the neck of the
bait. This technique makes the shiner swim in a downward motion,
and works great for trolling. Hooking in the dorsal fin will
make the bait swim up and away from the line or bobber, thus
creating more action, but the bait will wear down much quicker
and die sooner, so wait until you are anchored to try this
technique. Anal fin hooking close to back bone, but taking care
not to touch spine, will make bait swim down and away. Shiners
can actually be steered under vegetation to exact points where
you want to be. When casting live bait, remember the object is
to get them to the fish in perfect condition. Underhand pitching
or side arm casting prevent hard impact with the water, thus
helps to keep all the scales intact. Scales that are knocked off
leave white spots on your bait that can be seen under water as
well as makes your bait weak. Take the time to hit your target
the first time without repeated casts. Just remember you are not
fishing with artificial bait, so let the shiner sit and do his
job.
Handling live bait can be very important. Water temperature
should make slow changes, if any, from the time shiners are
placed in live well, until they reach destination to be fished.
Plenty of oxygen must be provided also. Bass rarely hit bait
that can't run away from them.
The most difficult way is to use a cast net.
This requires at least two people, one to manage
the boat and one to cast the net. The cast net should be sized
according to the size of the fish. This method is useful in
shallow water or when the fish are near the surface.
Have you ever heard of a Sabiki rig? This
is approximately four feet of leader with six small feathered
flies and a small sinker attached to the end. Hopefully you will
cast into a small school of fish and they will bite the flies
Many
late-model fishing boats are equipped with factory live wells;
other boaters use five-gallon buckets or coolers to keep bait
fish alive. Unfortunately, the water in coolers and buckets must
be changed frequently, or impurities, secretions and oxygen
depletion will degrade water quality to the point that the bait
dies. Moreover, there are species such as anchovies that won't
live for five minutes without a constant source of "fresh"
water.
Finally, don't beat up your bait by going too fast. Even
moderate boat speeds across a short wind chop can quickly bruise
the bait to the point that picky game fish will ignore your
red-nosed or scale less offerings. And speaking of rough
conditions, be sure to mount the tank securely, and in a
location that does not compromise boat handling or
seaworthiness.
Whether
you choose a plastic or fiberglass tank, a round, "trash-can
style;' or transom-mounted "diaper bag" bait tank, the two most
critical installation factors are the location of the water
pickup and the type of pump you select.
Through-hull intakes are the best, and the optimum location is
in the center of the boat about three feet forward of the
transom. With I/Os, the best location is usually in the forward
part of the engine bilge compartment, where access for the
fitting and seacock is normally excellent.
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