OFF THE FLORIDA KEYS - Serenity turns
to chaos in a blink on the 54-foot Catch-22 when the
fishermen find the target of their search - a school of
hungry fish gathered around a floating chunk of seaweed
about 30 miles from shore.
In goes the bait, and out of the flat, azure waters come the
dolphin fish - not the lovable "Flipper" types but the
yellow, green and blue fish, flapping frantically until they
are put in ice in the live well of Richard Stanczyk's boat.
Blood and bait pieces are cleaned before the next round,
when the catch includes triple tails, rainbow runners, and
even some unwelcome barracudas.
It's a common scene all year in the Florida Keys, the chain
of small islands stretching like a wagging tail from the
southern Florida Peninsula. Among the most popular
destinations is Islamorada, which, like much of the Keys,
attracts tourists year-round with warm weather and furious
fishing.
"There's something special about being out there on the blue
water and the sun and the air," says Stanczyk, owner of Bud
n' Mary's marina on Islamorada. "It's something an average
guy can do off the Keys, with a little luck."
On the Atlantic Ocean side of the Keys, a coral reef provides anglers
with opportunities for snapper, amberjack, and grouper,
while the deep waters farther out in the Atlantic are
grounds for dolphin fish, sailfish, swordfish and sharks.
The western side of the island chain offers backcountry and
flats fishing for bonefish, tarpon, permit, redfish, and
snook.
"Only here and Kenya have such a wide mix of fish," said
Graeme Pullen, a sports fishing writer from Fleet, England,
while aboard the Catch 22. "They have so many species you
can go for."
The sports fishing industry is both big fun and big
business, creating revenue for everything from mom-and-pop
bait shops to gas stations to chain hotels.
In 2005, the state of Florida estimated the economic impact
of the fishing industry at about $8 billion, according to
the Florida Fish and Wildlife Conservation Commission. A
survey by the Monroe County Tourist Development Council
shows that about 24 percent of overnight visitors to the
Keys engaged in fishing activities, and about 676,000
visitors fished during their 2005 vacation. A 2001 study
done by the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration
showed tourists spent about $288 million just on fishing
trips - and that doesn't include hotel stays, meals and
souvenirs.
"The motor and the engine that actually runs the Keys is the fishing and
diving and the outdoor saltwater adventure," said Jim
Sharpe, president of Florida Keys Fishing Tournaments Inc.
The island chain's storied fishing history dates back to the
late 1800s. A railroad stretching into the upper part of the
island chain attracted anglers from farther north who had
never seen such fertile and diverse fishing grounds.
Perhaps the greatest Keys fishing tale was the catch made
off Knight's Key by Capt. Charles Thompson in 1912. He
battled a 38-foot-long whale shark for a reported 39 hours,
harpooning it multiple times and riddling it with bullets.
The 10-ton fish was then stuffed and mounted on a railroad
car for a tour.
Today's big-game anglers can partake in various offshore
tournaments. Sharpe's group has a $685,000 budget to promote
the sports fishing industry in the Keys, and they use the
tournaments - including some women-only events - for
sailfish, dolphin fish and other catches as hooks to attract
tourists.
At the Holiday Isle Sailfish Tournament in January, 27 boats logged 221
catch-and-releases in two days - a sign that sailfish season
is humming along.
The high-end traveler will drop between $650 to more than
$1,000 for a full day of fishing on a boat like Stanczyk's
Catch 22, a multilevel custom job featuring outriggers, a
wide fishing area in the stern, an air-conditioned cabin and
the latest fish-finding technology.
The larger vessels are ideal for groups of four to eight
people - corporate groups, families - who want to fish in
deeper waters. Captains provide the fishing license, bait,
tackle and expertise. Anglers bring their own refreshments,
sun block and seasickness medication (it can get wavy 40
miles out in the Atlantic). Half-day trips are available for
below $650. When you get back, you can have your catch
cleaned to take with you.
Backwater and flats fishing is cheaper, with guides charging
about $350-$450 per day for two people aboard smaller boats.
But both options put the onus on the captains or guides to find the fish,
provide clients personal attention and give them their
money's worth.
"If I had a person on this boat today who never held a
fishing rod in their life, they still would have a great
time," Stanczyk said.
More economical options include party boats that charge
about $50-$80 per person for several hours of offshore
fishing. They are able to limit the cost because the trip is
shared by several people, but there is less personal
attention.
Another way to economize is to go in the summer. Hotel
prices are lower, but the fishing isn't quite as good,
there's more traffic on U.S. 1, and you may get some
mosquito bites.
You can also fish off one of several bridges, but you have
to provide your own bait, tackle and fishing license. Or
drive to the Keys with your own boat in tow. A recent trip
down U.S. 1 found boat trailer licenses from Tennessee,
Michigan and New York. Just remember, there are bag limits
and seasonal bans for most fish, and some spots are
off-limits due to environmental restrictions.
Back on the Catch 22, the lulls between rounds of fishing go
by rather quickly. Some engage in conversation about
politics or education, while the boat's mate readies
trolling lines in a search of sailfish.
Stanczyk sits back in his captain's chair and talks about the
difficulties of owning a business in the Keys and the
struggle to keep a fishing business alive amid rising fuel
costs, environmental restrictions, and big developers moving
in with condominium plans.
But he smiles when he comes across the latest school of
dolphin fish.
"This country works so hard, we need to play some, too,"
Stanczyk said. "This is a unique place and a special place."
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